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In a teacher-and-student quest, Hiroshi Sasaki and his understudies vie to create the greatest flavours. Combining Sasaki’s wealth of experience with the youthful sensitivity of his disciples, the restaurant builds a menu that surprises and delights, suffusing classic Japanese cuisine with fresh technique and imagination. The counter becomes a theatre that brings cooks and diners together, each playing their parts. The performances of ‘Sasaki Kitchen Theatre’, fun for eyes and tastebuds, have a presence that keeps the house packed night after night.

The aesthetic of ‘wabi-sabi’, restraint and impermanence, breathes in the walls of this veteran ryotei. The garden of moss-covered stone lanterns and washbasins, channels flowing with clear streams from Lake Biwa and a still, quiet tea arbour all give it a shadowed atmosphere. Hyotei eggs are a tradition handed down through generations from the founder. Eiichi Takahashi changed the dashi from dried bonito to dried tuna; tomato and soy sauce gracing Akashi sea bream sashimi is a permutation courtesy of the current chef, Yoshihiro Takahashi. Over the years, layers of innovation build up to cater to changing tastes: tradition and mutation, two sides of a coin.

The house began life as a travelling fishmonger, carrying fish from Wakasa Bay to scattered markets, then gradually transitioned into a restaurant. The sixth-generation head, Motokazu Nakamura, took over the reins having been the only one entrusted with the craft he learned at his father’s side. For the white miso zoni, he only uses water drawn from a well on the premises to dissolve the miso. Sake-grilled tilefish is doused in sake multiple times, piling flavour on top of flavour. The chef tends the kitchen with his son, who trained abroad, passing skills and spirit from one generation to the next.

Kikunoi is spreading the word worldwide about the allure of Japanese cuisine. Yoshihiro Murata sets his sights on innovation while evangelising Kyoto’s graceful ryotei culture. Occasionally Western ingredients get added to the mix, infusing a contemporary sensibility. Change accumulates in layers here, as a result of shifting personnel: Chef Murata invites trainees from overseas to pass on to them the true nature of Japanese cuisine and Japanese traditions of service. Fixing his gaze on the future of Japanese cooking, Murata cultivates the next generation of chefs.

The ambience is still, like a mountain retreat in the heart of the city. The flicker of votive lanterns casts a tenor of rustic simplicity. While he worked to polish his cooking skills, Hitoshi Ishihara also encountered Zen teachings. Inspired by the wabicha spirit of the tea ceremony, Ishihara strives to host each dinner as a single gathering, with guests and host in close communication. Generous portions reinforce the mood of celebration. ‘Mizai’ is a Zen word meaning ‘not yet here’; for Ishihara, tireless self-improvement is a never-ending journey.

Flowers are arranged, the ceremonial space is well appointed, serving vessels are carefully chosen. The tea ceremony spirit pervades Gion Maruyama’s graceful service. The Gion location is a ryotei but, in a modern touch, it also features counter seating. The chef has spent many years seeking out delicious flavours. He spells ‘oishii’ (good-tasting) the old-fashioned way, with the characters that mean ‘beautiful’ and ‘taste’, recalling the sensibilities of an older time. ‘Flavour, not seasoning’ is the chef’s credo. Devotion to Kyoto cuisine that reverberates in all senses.

‘Strive for simplicity, elevated by technique’ is the chef’s credo. Prizing seasonal flavours above all, he visits production areas the length and breadth of Japan. At first glance, the food arrangements and serving-ware appear ordinary, but each detail reveals the meaning of Japanese cuisine and patiently cultivated skill. Experience the graceful culture and hospitality of the tea ceremony, learned at a long-established ryokan, in a counter dining setting.

The chef selects ingredients in a way that treasures interaction with food producers. Against a backdrop of kombu boxes, decorating his walls like hanging scrolls, he prepares his dishes in a spirit of gratitude. His principle is that true flavours are subtle. In wanmono, he aims for a light flavour that brings out the umami of the makombu. But cooking is not the only thing that bewitches diners at Gion Nishikawa. The sukiya design of the interior makes the mood of old Gion palpable, while the chef’s affable personality keeps the room ringing with conversation and laughter.

Situated on the south side of Kennin-ji Temple, the restaurant looks out on Yasaka Pagoda. Pass through the elegant gate, have a seat in the waiting area, and relax in the courtyard cooled with sprinkled water. The proprietor welcomes guests with the four-fold etiquette of the wabi-cha school of tea ceremony: harmony, respect, purity and tranquillity. In cuisine, he prizes the five unseen senses, with care paid to light, sound, temperature, fragrance and taste. Even the water is steeped in history, tradition and the four seasons. Unseen yet deep and strong are the roots of Kyoto culture here.

The name ‘Roan’ derives from a Zen expression meaning ‘clear and unambiguous, hiding nothing’. To ensure the complete transparency of his work at Kikunoi, Yoshiharu Murata does all his food preparation in front of guests, at the counter. The opportunity to take in the dynamic activity in the kitchen while dining sets Roan apart from the flagship restaurant, a ryotei. Chatting with chefs as you enjoy dishes fresh from the kitchen is one of the pleasures of the kappo.

The ryotei sits on a sprawling 6,600 sqm property. The aesthetic of old Japan pulses through the veins of this establishment, from the impressive gate and garden sculpted by a gardener of rare talent to the house crafted by a master of sukiya-style construction. The interior includes private rooms, some complete with counters-style setups reflecting modern preferences. Ingredients are carefully selected from producers throughout Japan. The restaurant tries to be subtly ahead of the times by, for example, applying Western flame techniques to meat dishes and serving them as accompaniments to sake.

This ryotei began life as a restaurant and ryokan in Kyotango. With the rustic beauty of the Tango countryside and the refinement of Kyoto as its themes, Kodaiji Wakuden is opening a new era in ryotei culture. Crab, a speciality of the restaurant’s birthplace, is cooked in a sunken hearth, a hole strikingly carved in the middle of tatami seating. Also remarkable is the tradition of this establishment, the flagship of the Wakuden group of restaurants, of appointing carefully selected young chefs to run it, to invite the fresh breeze of new ideas, guided by a philosophy of constant innovation.

Next to Shimogamo Shrine, surrounded by the Tadasu-no-Mori forest, lies Kyokaiseki Kichisen. The chef, a devotee of Japanese cuisine and the performing arts, built a ryotei on this spot. Respectful of Kyoto traditions, menu items are accompanied by charming details. Lids of soup dishes are emblazoned with dew, expressing freshness. Tuna sashimi is arrayed like a sea of clouds, creating a fairytale-like scene. Serving dishes of Kyoyaki ceramics, garnished with fresh-cut flowers, beguile the eyes. A unique interpretation of Kyoto kaiseki, accompanied by the spirit of graceful service.

Built originally as pilgrims’ lodgings for Bujoji Temple, this dining inn is nestled amid swaying trees, a murmuring river and singing birds. Time passes gently here, surrounded by the majestic beauty of nature. Hisato Nakahigashi reflects the turning of the seasons. Budding wild grasses of Hanase and plants complement the vitality of river fish and game. Scenes of natural beauty dance before your eyes. Feast on the bounty of rural hills and streams.

Bold, elegant cuisine, stripped down and pure, sets off works by Rosanjin and other artists. Avoiding piling element upon element, Ogata finds creativity in deceptively unsophisticated appearances. Technique is guided by intuition gained from each ingredient or inspired by seasonal expressions. Seasonal aesthetics are manifested through the choice of ingredients, revealing the natural vitality of each.

The shop stands in Takagamine, a hilly area in northern Kyoto. Out of affection for the land where he was born and raised, the chef makes a point of using the region’s produce. Vegetables come from a nearby field cultivated by an old friend. The juiciness of freshly harvested foods and the aroma of the good earth leap from every dish. The meal ends with white rice with one of a variety of toppings, such as raw egg and soy sauce, cooked egg, or hashed beef. Enjoyable and satisfying right to the very end.

The chef has made himself a master of old-school Japanese cuisine to take it to the next level. While respecting orthodoxy in wanmono and side dishes, he refers to French flameworking techniques for his grilled items and snacks. Masu salmon is served mi-cuit; beef is rested multiple times during grilling. The sukiya-style interior in a remodelled wooden townhouse is appointed with both antique and modern dishware. ‘Ryosho’ means ‘aspire to the heavens,’ and the sky’s the limit for the chef’s ambition and desire to better himself.

During the short walk from the front gate to the main buildings, guests can appreciate the history of the buildings while feeling the presence of nature. Classic aesthetics pervade the entire site, from the sukiya design of the buildings to the space reflecting seasonal ceremonies and views of the garden. The chef wants every aspect of Sanso Kyoyamato to be beautiful, so he takes special care with the refinement of his food arrangements and their elegant flavours. The painstaking service of the proprietress and hostess is an agreeable presence. Diners will sense a complete work of Japanese art.

The wooden tablet at the entrance expresses the house credo: ‘Garnish rice cooked in the okudo stove with char-grilled snacks and wild grasses and flowers’. To learn more, you’ll have to visit the restaurant yourself. In an age of information exchange, Nakahigashi offers an opportunity to clear one’s mind and experience cuisine of herbs and grasses. In short, be grateful to others and for the bounty of nature, remembering that the truly important things cannot be seen with the eyes. An experience of noticing things awaits.

As an apprentice, while honing his skills in simmering and cooking, the chef discovered a love for grilling. The delicious taste of char-grilled boar impressed him and sparked his curiosity. Placing his grill at the centre of his kitchen, he hung out his shingle as a char-grill kappo. The bounty of mountain and ocean are roasted and slipped into the soup and dressed vegetables. Guests can choose between grilled fish or beef; game is also available in winter. Artful manipulation of the flame wreathes each item in the aroma of charcoal smoke.

This long-serving restaurant was built as a general store and traded as a sake dealer before transforming into a ryotei. In continuous operation since its founding three centuries ago, Mankamero has preserved tradition by constantly changing. Heir to the tradition of ‘yusoku ryori’, banquet fare served at imperial court functions, the restaurant carries on the Ikama school of ‘shikibocho’, the ceremonial art of knife handling that unites cookery with etiquette—faithfully preserved to the present day. Seasons are reflected everywhere, from the elegant Kyoto kaiseki to the arrangements, serving vessels and even the leaves and other underlays beneath the food. A taste of history, handed down in unbroken tradition.

Light French cuisine is the aim of chef Masashi Anpeiji. He even apprenticed in the south of France as he was drawn to how they favour olive oil over butter and cream. While still emphasising sauces, he takes great care to showcase high-quality Japanese ingredients. Presentations are brilliantly coloured and delicately prepared. Edible flowers, herbs, and citrus fruits add refreshing notes of sweetness and sourness. A breeze from the south of France wafts through the streets of Fushimi.

An amiable couple from Nagasaki run this restaurant. The husband, an admirer of Kyoto cuisine, left his family’s kappo restaurant to gain experience in Kyoto. As he studied ways to present food, he fell in love with the bounty of ingredients available and decided to go independent. His habit is to visit producing regions, securing fresh ingredients in season, such as picking wild edible plants and mushrooms in Miyama and angling for sweetfish in Shiga. Under the tutelage of a potter, he makes his own ceramics, on which the couple serve their culinary creations.

The chef experienced the profundity of local cooking in Italy and learned about fermented cuisine in Switzerland. In Kyoto, he happened upon the charm of Ohara’s agricultural produce. He then set about creating cuisine as only this terroir could make possible, accented by the sourness and bitterness of fermented vegetables. ‘Bini’ is named after his Italian mentor—his dearly-missed father figure in Italy. The name expresses gratitude for teaching him the joy of cooking and guiding his early career.

Ken Sakamoto exults in expressing Italian cuisine through the bounty of Japanese produce. Putting kombu kelp, bonito stock and fermented ingredients like malted rice miso and sake lees to effective use is how he preaches the gospel of Japanese cuisine. Cured hams and cheeses arrive from producers who share the chef’s passion. Nonstandard vegetables are used in fermented form; pruned citrus fruits garnish lend a sour piquancy as garnish. Food that brings people together in every sense.

Prix fixe menus combine Italian gastronomic experience with Japanese ingredients, as showcased by the risotto of Japanese rice. Raw tofu lees and Daitokuji natto are uniquely Kyoto. The chef strives for a light palate, making eating a relaxed experience. Salt-pickled vegetables are made into sauces, and utilising the tartness of fermentation brings to mind Japanese cuisine. The open kitchen and the spacious, blue-walled dining room feel bright and fresh.

This fare shows equal reverence for the aesthetics and traditions of Japanese cuisine and for classical works of art. The teahouse-style interior that greets guests is appointed with hanging scrolls, vases and other accoutrements accumulated over many years. To harmonise with the serving-ware, cuisine is presented simply, accentuating the beauty of blank spaces. Knowledge of home-brewed sake and fermentation pay tribute to traditional foods. ‘Doppo’, meaning ‘unique’, was a favourite phrase of epicure Rosanjin Kitaoji, a devotee of beauty in all its manifestations.

A return to the origins of French cuisine. To sublimate the classics, the chef pores over old cookbooks and interprets their recipes for modern ingredients and environments, giving free rein to his curiosity with wine, butter and sauces pungent with spices. He emphasises herbs picked in the morning in Oharano and ingredients from around Kansai, expressing in food his conversations with producers. ‘Droit’ means ‘straight ahead,’ and that’s the steady course this restaurant charts.

Try a variety of Japanese culinary styles, with the accent on tempura. The chef apprenticed in traditional Japanese cuisine before taking the road of the tempura artisan. The menu incorporates the food culture of Kyoto. The meal begins with beloved standards such as simmered Pacific herring with aubergine and grilled honmoroko fish before moving on to tempura. Tempura pieces include nama-fu (steamed mixture of wheat gluten and rice flour) and Kyoto vegetables. A small dish of dried sea cucumber gonads also serves as an appetizer, and is another popular standard. Subtle inflections and clever use of ingredients are testament to the chef’s experience.

Across the counter, the chef works his culinary magic right before your eyes. The aroma of the broth, the rhythmic chop of knife—this is not just a meal, it is a journey through all five senses into the subtleties of cooking and the soul of flavour. The chef spread the message of Japanese cuisine at two world fairs, Expo 2010 in Shanghai and Expo 2015 in Milan. The meal begins for everyone at once, out of respect for the ingredients and a desire to waste nothing: global experience also teaches reverence for the environment.

There is a traditional way of viewing the year as 72 distinct micro-seasons, each lasting no more than a few weeks. The turning of the seasons is but a fleeting moment, and the same is true for the seasons of ingredients. If ingredients are the cause, the effect is cooking, and the natural world is the connection between the two. The chef examines the nature of the foods he sources each day and crafts his results with respect for both cause and connection. The guests receive the life of the ingredient. The principles of cause, connection and effect are all found in cooking.

As an apprentice, the chef learned to treat ingredients with respect. Focusing on the perfect charcoal flame to deliver unadorned deliciousness comes naturally to him. Seasonal flavours such as bamboo shoots in spring, sweetfish in summer, Pacific saury in autumn and duck in winter are grilled on a big sunken hearth. To ensure that guests can enjoy the cuisine they love, the chef offers choices from the menu in the evening. ‘Manma’ means ‘just as it is’— every dish is faithful to its inherent flavours.

The menu easily runs to over a hundred items. As if to cover every aspect of the season, names of ingredients from mountain and sea tumble across the page. The kitchen buzzes with activity, the chef and his apprentices working in sync to prepare their creations. If watching the interplay appeals to you, sit at the counter for a front-row seat. Hamo sashimi may be parboiled or skin-seared; for soup, the chef offers creations tailored for each diner. Somen noodle soup is prepared with various types of dashi, each crafted from a single ingredient such as tilefish or clam.

Before all else, the aim is to entertain. Diners get a full view of the cooking area, befitting a counter kappo, as the chef’s open-hearted banter brings smiles to guests’ faces. Unstinting portions of lobster, matsutake mushrooms, crab, blowfish and other luxury foods in season ensure contentment. White rice is cooked in an old-fashioned clay hearth, known as an ‘okudo-san’, and accompanied by generous portions of the richly flavoured side dishes. ‘Tamago-kake gohan’, steamed rice topped with a raw egg, is available as a second serving.

The next generation of chefs apply themselves diligently to every task from cooking to service, following the proprietor’s teaching to always be sincere. The chef devotes himself to his craft, staying close to the basics while feeding his curiosity with inventive combinations. Vegetables such as peas, corn, ginkgo nuts and turnip are kneaded into baked sesame tofu, heralding the arrival of the season.

The chef is dedicated to bringing the natural flavours of his ingredients to life, and his char-grilling technique embodies that approach. Fresh from the kitchen brazier wafts aromas of wagyu beef and eel patiently grilled over bincho charcoal, bearing witness to the chef’s finesse. The meal concludes with a remarkable trio of clay-pot rices—plain, mountain delicacies, and seafood. Enjoy flavours of the season to your heart’s content.

As a ryotei cook, the chef learned never to forget the basics of Kyoto cuisine. In a mark of respect, the meal begins with a cup of sake. The chef expresses his commitment to gracious service through the passion he devotes to his cooking. Tilefish sashimi is lightly salted, enhancing flavour. Instead of simmered vegetables, hot-pot cooking is offered. Prizing engagement with his guests, the chef works his magic right before their eyes. The surest sign of a sincere craftsman is earnest devotion to his craft.

The restaurant is situated behind Minami-za, a theatre that has flourished since the early 17th century. The name HANA-Kitcho combines ‘hana’ from ‘hanamachi’ meaning geisha quarter, where it is situated, with ‘Kitcho’, the name of its celebrated origin. The framed calligraphy was written by Yuki Teiichi, the restaurant’s founder. The interior was crafted by multiple sculptors, the theme being a modern version of the Rimpa School of Painting. In keeping with the founder’s spirit, the chef weaves cultural elements into festive and seasonal decorations, exercising his talents to create kaiseki that reflects the seasons.

The chef oversees every aspect of the menu, which changes monthly. The restaurant evolves from moment to moment as seasons shift and the day’s ingredients are chosen; this impermanence inspires the passion and the flavours at the core of the chef’s creativity. He embraces the principle of shuhari, the three stages of mastery: first, master the basics; next, break the mould with creativity; finally, set out on your own to blaze a new trail. Guest and chef merge time and space, sharing a mutually felt joy.

Contemporary French cuisine that welcomes influences from other culinary cultures. The chef, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, proclaims to the world a borderless cuisine born of his experience living in Asia. Recipes come straight from the flagship restaurant in New York. Spices and herbs accentuate the aroma; the tartness of citrus brings a light note. In the warmer months when the terrace is open, the tables beside the Shirakawa River, with their views of Kyoto scenery, fill up fast.

The original establishment of the Miyazawa chain of kappo restaurants. Jiki Miyazawa is best known for its famous baked sesame tofu, accompanied by rice served at its freshest, right after cooking. Other menu items are conceived by the chef, drawing on his experience at the ambassador’s residence in Poland. Each dish is layered with numerous ingredients, brightened by the freshness of citrus and tartness of other fruits. In true gourmet fashion, soba dishes are crafted using seasonal ingredients.

The proprietor loves sake above all other beverages and caters to his guests by pairing sakes of every region with compatible dishes. ‘Delicious sake and prized delicacies’ are the stars of the menu, a tapestry of kaiseki offerings interwoven with the chef’s imagination. One such creation features sashimi served as aemono—veggies or seafood, dressed with various seasonings. Appetisers arrive not on a platter, but one by one, freshly cooked. The meal concludes with chub mackerel sushi and somen noodle soup instead of the traditional rice and soup. Dishes designed to go well with sake keep the rice wine flowing.

A kappo run by a kind-hearted couple, who pour their hearts into making diners feel welcome — which is why they only cater to one party per evening. The meal begins with congee, or steamed mochi rice topped with seasonal items and then continues to a cup of sake accompanied by an assortment of snacks. In true Kyoto style, the wanmono is a white-miso soup. To close the meal, white rice cooked in clay pots is served — a dish the chef believes best reflects cooking skills; enjoy it with pickled vegetables hand-made by the proprietress.

The ‘kaname’ is the crucial pivot pin of a folding fan. Taking that pivotal role, the husband-and-wife proprietors tour the famous restaurants and wineries of the world, blending the thoughtfulness and passion they find there with Kyoto’s spirit of graceful hospitality. Cooks and service staff are united in their shared mission. Guided by the rubric that ‘tradition is just the continuation of innovation’, this is a restaurant that is open to new ideas, like a folding fan produced by numerous artisans.

Behind a counter oozing Showa-era ambience, the chef plies his trade in his white smock and wooden clogs. As the second-generation chef of Kappo Hassun, he cherishes the history of Kyoto cuisine, populating his menu with dishes inherited from his father and foods associated with seasonal celebrations. Examples include assortments of sweet, steamed and layered egg cakes and burdock-root rolls, deep-fried tofu with thinly sliced veggies held together with hamo meat, and seasoned grilled fish. Gaining ideas from recipes he finds in literature, he brings old-style work to a new generation.

The first feature to catch your eye in the tasteful tea-house style interior is the lacquer counter, which the chef polished and coated himself. ‘Kentan’ means ‘the deep pursuit of self-improvement’. The seasonal interior decoration, serving ware and cuisine combine harmoniously to celebrate the history and food culture of Kyoto. Modern cooking techniques are also adopted here, such as grilling over low flame. A place to appreciate Japanese cuisine in a broader context.

The restaurant is temporarily closed and plans to relocate in May. There’s no point in cooking, says Kenya, if it doesn’t make the food tasty. Bringing fun and happiness to guests is important above all. Rice and sake both come from Aomori, where the chef comes from. His character reveals itself in his face when he lifts the lid on a pot of freshly steamed rice. Western music, classical music and Showa-era ballads are chosen to suit the cuisine, expressing the joy of good cooking as if weaving a tale. Flavours are fun here.

A ‘sushi kappo’ opened by the ryotei Kikunoi. Sushi is Japanese food, after all, so inventive steps are taken to incorporate sushi into the proceedings, interspersing nigiri into the flow of appetisers, sashimi and soup. Treatment of ingredients is unique: for example, Japanese tiger prawn is char-grilled and scorched in the shell, and conger eel is seasoned with black seven-spices and buds of the pepper tree. Another thing you won’t find elsewhere is the ability to choose from serving ware and sake decanters crafted by none other than legendary ceramicist and epicure Rosanjin.

Flexible and creative while revering the classics, Kinobu adds new twists to the way Kyoto cuisine reflects yearly events and the changing of the seasons. At the heart of the chef’s approach is a restless curiosity. He corresponds regularly with overseas chefs to deepen his store of knowledge. His ‘wine menu’ of dishes that pair well with wine is an innovation that broadens the scope of kaiseki. Kinobu began as a caterer and transformed itself into a ryotei. Treading a contemporary path, Kinobu keeps its eye on the future.

Water drawn from a well on the premises is where everything starts for Kiyama. Prix fixe dining begins with the service of plain hot water. The first infusion of dashi is prepared before the guests’ eyes, its aromatic fragrance and clear, refined flavour enlivening each simmered bowl. As the meal draws to a close, the proprietor himself prepares and serves thin tea, a weak matcha. The menu is a hymn of thanks for the pure groundwater of Kyoto that brings out the best in each dish.

This creative cuisine reflects the chef’s gastronomic journey. Spanish and French techniques find application in recipes from Okinawa, where the chef was born and raised. A tapa named ‘Ryukyubon’ is one example. This version of a dish from the Ryukyu royal court is arranged on Yachimun pottery and served on a Ryukyu lacquer tray. Purees and sauces form tracks drizzled atop asado grilled over wood or charcoal in a stone oven.

The menu evokes the changing seasons and traditional culture of Japan. The proprietor is an accomplished gourmet whose deep knowledge comes from experience as a fishmonger and attentive reading of literature. Hassun platters, garnished with flowers as if to paint a picture of nature, showcase the ideas and origins found in the foods of traditional festivals. Behind each meticulously crafted dish breathes the living aesthetic and customs of Japanese cuisine.

Shizuo Miyamoto’s quest is for his own style of Chinese cooking with a seasonal aesthetic. Fish in season is stir-fried with chilli peppers; spring rolls are wrapped in three types of ingredients, so each mouthful tastes different from the one before. Counter seating, right in front of the kitchen, builds diners’ anticipation amidst the clatter of woks and aroma of food. At ‘Kyo Seika,’ graciously hosted by the Miyamoto couple, lively conversation between the veteran chef and his guests imparts joy to the meal.

The tempura is unique, bursting with the flavours of each season. Coated in batter so thin it’s almost transparent, each piece is lightly deep-fried in a special oil based on a secret recipe. Service alternates between seasonal seafood and vegetables, dusted with hand-crushed salt to draw out the flavour. Pieces are small, in typically Kyoto consideration for the dainty appetites of geisha and maiko. The meal concludes with rice topped with tempura, over which refreshing green tea broth is poured—pure in its simplicity.

Coming from a family of vegetable wholesalers, the chef grew up with fond memories of visiting the market. As an apprentice he frequented marketplaces with his mentor, learning how to recognise good produce, listening to wholesalers and forming bonds of trust. Those days spent with his mentor, driving to the market and shopping for ingredients, may have been the origin of Kyoryori Fujimoto. The menu, rich in vegetables, evokes a sense of both season and the people behind the cuisine.

Light dining is the chef’s approach. For the amuse-bouche, the theme is ‘five flavours’. A medley of finger foods adds a playful touch; roast wagyu comes in a clear sauce of beef juices. The meal concludes on a Japanese note, with soba. A soup of vegetable cut ends is poured into the bowl, adding value while ensuring nothing is wasted. The meal weaves abundant experience and creative evolution, unfolding as a biography in food.

The chef seeks to feel and convey the terroir of Ohara, through its climate, landscape, and produce. Early each morning he visits the market, to listen to the farmers and think about recipes for the vegetables on offer that day. Prix fixe menus interweave wild mountain greens and flowers with game, drawing the diner into the natural milieu of the rural mountain communities. Food is cooked over a wood fire fed by lumber from forest thinning. In the counter kitchen, he tends a brightly burning flame, his attention focused on the food he’s preparing.

After Ashiya and Gion, the new frontier for Hiroyuki Koshimo is Karasuma. The shop’s previous name, ‘Roiro’, meant ‘Black as Lacquer’, so Koshimo changed it to ‘Pure White’ to set a different tone. Though his technique is French, Koshimo is not limited by genre, incorporating Japanese elements to broaden the expressive range. Risotto in season, prepared with Yosano rice, is a perennial favourite in this lively and hospitable eatery.

The owner and chef are a picture of brisk motion behind the counter. Offerings range from simple fare to more elaborate dishes, so everyone can choose something they fancy. Soups of ground vegetables and fruit mark each season. Potato salad is served Mirei-style: adding cucumber pickled in rice bran. Nama-fu (a steamed mixture of wheat gluten and rice flour) baked with blue cheese shows the house’s playful side. When a single dish is prepared, the owner asks if we’d like him to split it for us—a considerate touch.

Japanese decor with Scandinavian chairs creates a harmonious modern Japanese interior. The chef respects the boundaries of Japanese cuisine while overlaying some creative touches. Tsukuri are dressed with salted kombu, enhancing umami. Tofu skin is grated and incorporated into pureed soup, coaxing out its sweetness. Pairing of fish and vegetables with fruit adds a lightness for a modern sensibility. Ingenious, yet true to the native flavours of the ingredients.

Food that makes you appreciate the goodness of Japanese cuisine all over again; nothing pretentious, just a reminder of how delicious familiar flavours can be. One novel touch is that rice is cooked in a Nanbu iron pot, for results different from the usual clay one. The house aims for simple preparations that treasure the culture and techniques cultivated by previous generations. The cuisine, plated on antique tableware, evokes the idea of ‘onko-chishin’ — learning from the old to create something new.

Alexis Moko polished his skills in Paris and London before decamping to Kyoto. Encountering an old merchant’s house that had once served as a dietary school, he opened a restaurant where he could express his knowledge of French cuisine through Japanese ingredients. Moko makes the most of the freshness of vegetables from nearby Ohara while ageing fish and meat in a curing warehouse to amplify umami. Dishes inspired by classic cuisine are dressed generously in sauces to create a light, refreshing touch.

The kitchen comes alive with the spirited motion of the chefs. Guided by the philosophy of ‘rustic beauty and cultured refinement’, they plate ingredients in their natural form, giving true expression to their flavour. Flame-broiled or stewed dishes prepared on earthen charcoal braziers before guests’ eyes are to be enjoyed along with their aromas. Steaming in clay pots brings the goodness of rice grown in Kyotango to the fore. Cuisine imbued with the seasons and respect for nature.

Omakase dishes reflect the turning of the seasons; hassun platters convey the month’s events and customs. Dedicated to fresh-from-the-kitchen deliciousness, white rice is served the moment it’s cooked. A generous assortment of accompaniments, such as dried mullet roe, dried baby sardines with pickled plum and savoury seaweed paste, brings joy. ‘Yui’ is short for ‘yuiitsu-muni’, or ‘one and only’. Unique cuisine and unmatched décor captivate diners.

The chef is an earnest devotee of everything that makes a restaurant great, thanks to careful study of ingredients, culinary technique and attention to every customer. Recipes are tested over and over to get the flavour just right. Knowing that the taste of dashi soup stock changes over time, the chef patiently rests his stock to draw out the flavour. While known to refer to traditional methods, alternations between new and old are a signature of Nakamitsu’s menus.

His grandfather was a caterer, his father a baker, so the path of the chef was a natural one for this owner-chef. Determined to be a culinary artist with roots in his community, the chef hung out his noren in a residential district. Seasonal menus weave in vegetables grown in his home region of Ohara. Fish come from Awaji, where the place he trained has ties. Items on the plate nestle together, evoking a sense of connections among people. Friendly service also puts the heart at ease.

The counter was lacquered by the couple who run the restaurant as a wish for its enduring prosperity. The sign is a memento handwritten for them by the monk of Daitokuji Temple, to which the couple regularly journey to draw water. To impart the flavour of each ingredient, the chef follows a creed of simple, honest preparation. His talents are on full display in the Kyoto cuisine he studied so diligently. The meal closes with handmade Japanese confectioneries. As a devotee of the Omote Senke school of tea ceremony, the chef serves thin tea, which he prepares himself as a token of gratitude.

Generous portions give satisfaction, while ingenious ingredient combinations make simple presentations all the more impressive. To learn about fish, the chef spent time working at a fishmonger’s. Fish is prepared simply—freshly sliced, grilled or deep-fried—yet with clever twists as befits a connoisseur. The meal concludes with white Omi rice grown by the chef’s uncle in Hira, served steaming in Shigaraki clay pots. With his friendly demeanour, the chef is often seen deep in conversation with guests.

The menu alternates between omakase set menus and à la carte options. The evening begins with a procession of seasonal dishes, accompanied by wagyu stew rather than soup. Choose additional items from the menu or ask for a presentation of the ingredients of the day. White rice and miso soup wrap up the meal. We recommend the deliciousness of freshly cooked rice with accompaniments such as fried fish, fried chicken or braised pork.

After learning the basics at a ryotei, the chef worked at a kappo, where he discovered how to make dining fun. What he finds compelling about being a chef, he says, is that while the food itself is consumed at once and disappears, the occasion lingers in the memory. His ingenuity comes to the fore in Kyoto cuisine rich in dashi and vegetables. Side dishes such as boiled vegetables and ground soup, skilfully served both cold and warm, make for a treat that is simple yet impressive. Rice cooked in clay pots joins items such as preserves simmered in sweetened soy sauce, dried mullet roe and peppered crepe.

The father-and-son team, along with their wives, offer a warm welcome to this kappo with deep roots in Saga. You can order à la carte or omakase style. Fish dishes are the stars of the menu, prepared in a number of ways: steamed with salt and sake, grilled, or however you like. Eel are prepared both unseasoned and dipped in soy-based sauce for you to taste and compare. At lunch the menu of boiled tofu and hiryuzu (deep-fried tofu mixed with thinly sliced vegetable) is the attraction. Treasuring its links with the region it calls home, Okina gets its tofu from Saga.

A small shop curtain flutters in a Gion shopping street; walk along cobblestones sprinkled with water to a quiet nook where the noise of the high street is soon forgotten. The menu draws inspiration from a list of poetic seasonal terms. Cooking showcases the peak flavours of each ingredient so as to keep in step with the changing seasons. Precise knife work and pairings of foods with tableware express learning accumulated, like tree rings, over many years. A place to experience the understated poise of Japanese cuisine.

The mood of a Kyoto merchant’s townhouse pervades the interior. To ensure each guest receives his full attention, the chef accepts only one booking per day. Hassun appetisers of seasonal vegetables are prepared simply in the way that best brings out their flavours, such as by steaming or frying. Buckwheat mash dressed in white miso is a staple final dish created from the chef’s experience at a soba shop. Each dish uses as few ingredients as possible, so everything eaten leaves its own impression.

The chef’s motto is ‘Ingredients, flame, simplicity’: simple dishes, prepared with just the right flame for carefully selected ingredients. No plate has more than three ingredients, so diners know exactly what they’re eating. By drawing out honest flavours, the chef honours food producers. Kiyomizu-ware plates and bowls highlight the beauty of blank spaces, embodying an aesthetic quintessentially Kyōto. A unique approach leads to optimal results.

Elegant dining with a view of Yasaka Pagoda. The cuisine is authentic French, crafted with classic techniques and sauces. Emphasis is on ingredients from Kyoto, hewing close to the producers and topography of that township. Herbs plucked from the family garden add grace notes to flavours; French ingredients such as caviar and truffles bring refinement to the mix. Arrangements are as pretty as oil paintings, making the cuisine truly bright and beautiful.

Playful-hearted fare and amiable service keep the establishment packed evening after evening. In the spirit of blending Western and Japanese styles, Koichi Maekawa dons chef’s whites and pipes light jazz over speakers. His credo is that food should be fun, so his roving imagination goes above and beyond Japanese, Chinese, and Western traditions. The all-wood interior and vaulted ceiling exude warmth, evoking a houseboat. With Maekawa as skipper and his chefs as the crew, this ‘ship’ keeps passengers smiling and rides a wave of popularity.

Seasonal notes and playfulness abound in the menu. Simple preparations etch themselves in the memory. During the Gion Festival, SEN displays a replica of the Naginata Boko, the first float in the festival’s parade, reflecting the city’s traditional events and customs. At the close of the meal, choose from an assortment of comfort foods such as mackerel sushi, chazuke and ramen. The chef learned to ‘read the room’ as an apprentice and is known to change ingredients and preparation styles based on guests’ conversation. The spirit of graceful service, expressed in cooking.

Freewheeling cuisine by a chef with Japanese spirit and Western learning. Gratin of truffles and clams is reminiscent of scallop coquilles served at Western restaurants. Use of serving dishes irrespective of cuisine shows a blending of Western and Japanese styles. Lacquered wooden trays, however, change with each dish, professing a sensitivity to beauty that pervades every aspect of Shimmonzen Yonemura. Supported by a team of young workers, the cuisine of Chef Masayasu Yonemura evolves with each restaurant he opens, from Kiyacho to Yasaka to Shimmonzen.

The colour scheme speaks of immaculate purity. The white interior is refreshing; the blank spaces left in the arrangements bring clarity of focus. Eager to share the attractions of his hometown with the world, the chef largely gets his ingredients from Shimane Prefecture. Seafood arrives from former classmates; fruit from farmers for his desserts. The style is Italian-based cuisine made with Japanese foodstuffs, bringing the delicious taste of quality ingredients to the fore.

The shop has operated as Sushi Kappo for half a century. Sushi techniques acquired in Tokyo are married with Kyoto cuisine in an omakase service with a twist of originality. Appetisers, wanmono and grilled items bring seasonal flavours in succession; sushi arrives at meal’s end. In an entertaining touch, additional items can be chosen from the classic wooden sushi nameplates hung on the wall. Come for the cuisine served on elegant vessels collected over many years and for fish from the Seto Inland Sea.

Just one character, ‘sushi’, graces the noren. The owner-chef calls out a hearty ‘Irasshaimashi!’, an Edo-style welcome that proudly reflects where he apprenticed. He salts his fish thoroughly to eliminate moisture, concentrating the flavour as his mentor taught him to do. Sushi rice is seasoned with red vinegar and salt, never with sugar. The focus on nigirizushi and acceptance of drop-in customers preserve the spirit of the old-school sushi shop. The soul of Edo thrives even here in the geisha district of Kyoto.

A sushi restaurant produced by Gion Sasaki . Chefs who honed their skills in Japanese cuisine under their master now stand at the counter. The two types of sushi rice are selected according to the topping, and steamed or grilled dishes are interwoven between the nigiri in a unique touch. Fresh-cooked rice is seasoned with red vinegar; conger eel delights the eyes as it cooks over bamboo grass on an earthen brazier. The chefs work together with well-oiled precision, calculating their moves to deliver each morsel at the moment of peak flavour.

The prix fixe selection of numerous small dishes borrows an idea from Spanish tapas. Playful presentation and gorgeous arrangements upgrade Italian cuisine to a modern interpretation. The open kitchen is a stage, the semicircular counter the theatre’s front row. White serving-ware matches the white interior and the whole dining room feels like a canvas, a space to be filled by bright and colourful cuisine.

Tempura kaiseki, inherited from the chef’s grandfather. Japanese cuisine expresses the turning of the seasons. Tempura is fried one item at a time in canola oil, with a thin, lightly seasoned coating. Dipping sauce is served warm; tofu in a deep-fried style preserves the grandfather’s methods. Dressing tempura items in chopped onions and mustard is the Tenjaku style. Feeling that the afternotes should be light, the meal ends with white rice cooked in clay pots.

Shinya Matsumoto expresses delicacy and rustic beauty through his cooking. A perfect example is his grilled offerings, cooked upright as if around a sunken hearth. Matsumoto polishes his artisanal skills with a keen eye fixed on the culinary techniques of antiquity. Foods are grilled upright over charcoal in a pot, concentrating their flavour as they roast. The meat and fish’s natural fats fall onto the charcoal, wreathing each item in smoke that adds to their aroma. The chef’s perspective and techniques draw out delicious flavours.

The name is short for ‘yakitori no saki’, meaning ‘the future of yakitori’, and a harbinger of things to come in the yakitori world is just what Torisaki aims to be. Using brand-name chicken from Fukushima, the chef and his team grill skewers of chicken over a high flame. A chicken skewer combining liver with chochin has become a signature item thanks to the affinity between the cuts used. The atmosphere of the machiya interior is nostalgic; the sight of the cooks in their twisted headbands a cheerful welcome.

Tozentei takes its name from a fictitious restaurant in a novel. ‘Tozen’ means ‘tipsy,’ a state of being slightly and comfortably under the influence; the name invites guests to find pleasure in both tucker and tipple. The fabric of human relations in this family-run restaurant exudes a feel of immersion in a cheerful TV drama or story. Tilefish steamed with plums and kombu consummately combines the flavour of the fish flesh with the tartness of dried plums. Tozentei is located close to Tenmangu, a shrine famous for the plum trees beloved by the poet and statesman Sugawara no Michizane. The connection is tangible.

Fusa means ‘linen’ or ‘hemp cloth’, which is used in Shinto rituals to symbolise cleanliness. The word was chosen for the restaurant’s name because, like Japanese cuisine, it developed from an origin as a sacred offering, and indeed the shop curtain hanging at the shop’s entrance is woven of pure linen. As part of his daily duties, the owner-chef prays at Ujiko Shrine and draws pure votive water from there. The proprietress, a qualified sommelier, suggests pairings of sake and wine.

A procession of dishes that linger in the diner’s memory. Seasonal flavours are used in generous measure, such as Japanese pepper flower, pike conger, matsutake mushrooms and crab. Preparation methods, whether that be grilling, boiling or more, are astutely tailored to each ingredient, showcasing its qualities from every angle. This talent for bringing out the best in food is born of long years of experience. A favourite haunt of the literati, the Uozuya sign calligraphy is by essayist Masako Shirasu.

The interior’s keynote black bespeaks modern dining; the cuisine, modern Chinese with further innovations, confirms the impression. The concept of Chinese-French fusion cuisine adds uniqueness, exemplified by the foie gras sandwiched between two thin, crisp wafers redolent with Shaoxing wine. Use of decompression cooking and liquid nitrogen ensure that ingredients retain all their flavour. Advanced methods give rise to new directions in cuisine.

The chef brings out the best in seasonal ingredients to conjure simple, tasty fare. Early morning market visits, part of his daily routine, furnish the ingredients that inspire ideas for his kitchen. Pasta of sweetfish and crab, simmered in their own broth, express the candid flavours of the season. Wines that bring out the flavours of each dish are part of the appeal of Vena. Ask the sommelier about the house’s range of finely aged wines.

The name ‘Wagokoro’ was chosen as the chef aims for cuisine that calms the soul. Rather than pursue beautiful presentation for its own sake, the chef seeks a natural appearance that delights the hearts of diners. This commitment shines in grilled items such as rolled omelette and sweetfish, as well as in bowls of stewed items. Handmade thick-fried tofu and fish cake are the perfect companions to their broth. Flavours as only a chef who has toiled earnestly in the fields of Kyoto cooking can produce.